We took the red ADO bus from Mérida to Bacalar. The trip was about 5 hours to the southeast, heading towards the border with Belize. Unlike Tulum or Valladolid, Bacalar doesn’t have a proper bus station. Although a new station is in the works, currently, buses stop at the main road and travelers must cross the street and walk into the village. This may be the only slightly stressful part of the journey, as Bacalar is a quiet town with little happening in the streets except for taxis and wandering dogs. The village is best known for its beautiful lake, ‘La Laguna de los 7 colores’ (The Lagoon of Seven Colors). In this blog post, I share my dos and don’ts for things to do in Bacalar, Mexico.
Preparing for a trip to Bacalar
Do not plan a trip to Bacalar on a Wednesday, as there are no tours on the lake that day. Laguna Bacalar is a fragile ecosystem. The oldest life forms on earth can be found here: stromatolites. These fossils (white rock formations) keep the lake clean, produce oxygen, and create beautiful blue shades in the water. To protect these fossils, aside from tour-free Wednesdays, it is forbidden to touch them, stand on them, or swim in the lake with sunscreen. It is still unclear to me whether this applies to all varieties of sunscreen, including reef-safe options. Either way, I recommend bringing a UV shirt/rash guard and a hat to protect your skin, as the sun is strong in Bacalar.
Best things to do in Bacalar
Book a sunrise SUP tour
Paddleboarding at sunrise is number one on the list of things to do in Bacalar. Despite the cloudy sunrise, our experience of paddling on the crystal-clear water was truly special. Our first stop was Cenote Negro, named for its dark water due to its depth. We then crossed the lake to Pirates Channel, which connects Bacalar Lagoon with Mariscal Lagoon. This channel used to be a waterway to and from Bacalar, but now it’s a great place to relax. You can see the sandbank, making it a perfect spot to chill in the water. Our guides served freshly cut melon and water on the paddleboard. If you’re not a fan of paddleboarding, you can rent a kayak or sign up for a sailboat trip. With a boat, you can explore the lake further.
Price for SUP tour: 650 MXN, tour lasts 3 hours.
Check out Bacalar’s street art – on foot or by bicycle
The town of Bacalar surprised me with its colorful street art. Most of the works can be found on Avenida 3 and Avenida 5, two streets leading to the central Zocalo park. Be sure to set aside some time for a little street art hunt or borrow/rent a bike from your hotel to save your feet. The roads are very quiet, but they become somewhat hilly outside the village, so bring plenty of water!
Visit Fuerte de San Felipe (with its iguanas)
The name Pirates Channel suggests that Bacalar used to have problems with pirates. To protect itself, a fort called Fuerte de San Felipe was constructed in the 18th century. If I had a drone, I might have seen the star shape of this structure from above. On the ground, you can mainly see the four points of the wall. The fort is well-maintained and is home to a group of iguanas that can be seen crawling over the walls. I didn’t go inside because the entrance fee has significantly increased in recent years (like many other attractions in Yucatan and Quintana Roo). Plus, there isn’t much to see inside other than a view of the lake. Tip: visit Mango y Chile next to the fort for kind of the same view and a refreshing shake.
Entrance fee Fuerte de San Felipe: 110 MXN.
Swimming at Cocalitos
To access Laguna Bacalar, you can book a waterfront hotel or visit one of the balnearios (a kind of beach club). My favorite balneario is Cocalitos, which is a 20-minute bike ride from Bacalar center. It is famous for the strips of stromatolites lying offshore. Luckily, these delicate areas are clearly marked so that visitors cannot stand on them. The water at Cocalitos is incredibly beautiful. As for the crowd, I found it to be quite okay. There is a grassy area to dry off and a small shop for snacks like chips. You can combine a visit to Cocalitos with a trip to Cenote Esmeralda, which you can access via Casa China. Entry is free, and there is a lookout tower.
Entrance fee Cocalitos: 100 MXN.
Things I do not recommend doing in Bacalar
Los Rapidos
Los Rapidos is located a bit outside Bacalar. It is a channel with a natural rapid in the middle and stromatolites on the side. The water is very photogenic, but unfortunately, this place has become touristy. The staff is only focused on serving drinks and food and doesn’t check whether visitors follow the rules. There are signs, but it’s essentially self-regulation. Sadly, I saw tourists walking on the stromatolites to get in or out of the water. Another downside is the high prices. The entrance fee is 200 MXN, and a round trip by taxi costs 400 MXN (a return taxi can be arranged at the entrance). Unfortunately, there’s no other way to get here. Colectivo is not an option, and cycling is too far and dangerous as part of the route goes along the highway.
Nearby Los Rapidos are two other spots: Laguna Bonanza and Sac-Ha. I haven’t been there myself, but I’ve read good stories. Perhaps worth considering as an alternative to Los Rapidos. However, taxi costs remain just as high.
Cenote Azul
Maybe I had the wrong expectations, but I was disappointed to find that the water here was dull and rather dark. You won’t see the various blue shades. The setup is the same as at Los Rapidos. All the focus is on the restaurant by the water. There’s hardly any space to sit or relax near the water. It’s swimming, changing in the toilet, and eating in the fairly expensive restaurant. Cenote Azul is mainly interesting for divers because of its depth. However, the entrance fee is very affordable (30 MXN), and it’s only a 30-minute bike ride from Bacalar center.
Restaurants in Bacalar
Did I already mention Mango y Chile? In my opinion, the best restaurant in Bacalar. 100% vegan and has great views over the lake. Other nice spots are La Playita (the fried avocado tacos!) and Tierra Ixim. A favorite among backpackers is Mr. Taco, cheap and good. I’ve also read good stories about Yerbabuena and Enamora.
Where to stay in Bacalar
It all depends on your preferences: staying in the city with plenty of restaurant options or waking up right by the lake outside Bacalar. We chose the city and stayed at Agam Hotel. The staff is friendly and provides lots of tips on what to do. Bicycles are free and the breakfast was delicious. The only downside was the water pressure in the toilet. Flushing sometimes required multiple attempts. If you prefer a hotel by the water, consider checking out Rancho Encantado or Mayan Playa Bacalar. Both have private access to the lake but are a bit far from town.
Those were my top things to do (and not to do) in Bacalar. Which places in Bacalar would you like to visit?
All prices mentioned in the blog post are from 2024 and are subject to change. This blog post contains affiliate links. If you book something through these links, I earn a small commission without you paying extra for it. You can read more about it in my disclaimer.
